My time in Tirapsol was one I will, no doubt, look back upon with great fondness. Indeed, I already do. However, it was nothing if not full on. Within ten minutes of crossing the border and meeting Yulia, Vitya and Bogdan, the first two to my great surprise on a blue racing tandem, we passed under the gatehouse of the fortress in Bender, the first town one comes upon in Transnistria. As I exited into the bright, crisp air I was confronted with six cameras and a posse of journalists, their aim unerringly on me and Chris the tandem. To say I was surprised would be to miss the point – unbeknownst to me the tourism agency had plans for exactly what I would be doing at almost every minute during my time in Transnistria.

Four media interviews followed in the span of 24 hours, the most bizarre including me sending a couple of postcards from the post office – clearly a matter of some pride, though my previous experience as a tourist had lent to me understand one sends postcards to report on tourist attractions, rather than being one itself. The use of prittstick to secure the stamp to the card was an unusual quirk in the process.

My one day in Transnistria had been mapped out by Igor of the tourism board and featured a tour of the city, visiting a carbon bike builder and a surprise night cycle up to a soviet-era column overlooking the golden lights of Tiraspol and Bender. Everyone I met was welcoming and kind, and Igor had gone to great lengths to integrate me with Transnistria’s cycling community – these were just the experiences I would have sought out myself, though no doubt with less success, had I travelled independently.

However, it had stymied my efforts to meet Natalia of the Zhenskiye Initsiativi (Women’s Initiative), which helps women who have faced domestic violence and trafficking. However, early on the morning of my departure, I ran over to her office, my bare legs attracting stares, and was welcomed through a nondescript iron door.

In her office Natalia – whilst plying me with coffee and cakes, the green kettle chugging periodically in the background –  told me about the work she leads. Domestic violence – both physical and verbal – is relatively common in the region, partly a hangover from soviet times when it was assumed the man led the household. The centre gives women psychological and legal support, but also helps some women find work, a place to stay or a kindergarten.

There is significant stigma attached to domestic abuse and one of the successes of the programme has been the increasing number of women participating. However, this year they were forced to adapt their way of working as Transnistria went into lockdown. They moved online helped 230 women during this period; their meetings, with psychologist Gabrielle, were a “lifeline” for the women stuck indoors, often with children, and short on resources and sanity.

Although trafficking and domestic abuse are technically illegal, there is little to stop it in practice Natalia tells me. Women’s Initiative have taken four cases to court, two of which have already led to successful convictions. But therein lies the problem, Natalia tells me. I must have looked confused. “Those men were given a $100 fine, and a three year prison sentence”; she looks away for a second, “but they never went to prison, they’re still on the street”. A paltry fine and nonexistent jail time – this is the justice system Natalia and her lawyer appear to be up against. And whilst they do see progress, it can be slow and painful to watch. Gabrielle tells me that a women might be beaten eight times by their partner, and only on the ninth time leave – it was difficult for me understand this, and Gabrielle explains further: “there is a psychological dependency between victim and aggressor and this can be extremely difficult to break”.  The team at Women’s Initiative do not have an easy task on their hands, and one they approach with a fraction of the support that similar initiatives in the UK are given.

“Why do you continue?” I ask, “surely it would be easier for you to work in a bank?”. Natalia looks back at me. “I do this because these women have almost no one to support them” Gabrielle concurs  and adds “I get great pleasure from seeing the impact my work has”.

Women’s Initiative may only have small team and its impact is limited. They work alongside a couple of other related organisations, and were tided over the lockdown period by a grant from BEARR. However, they are making a difference, in the face of indifference, and their determination and passion suggests that this difference will gradually grow.